Basses

A Short Guide for First Time Double Bass Buyers

This short guide is in response to many parent, teacher and student questions regarding the purchase of a new student bass. I hope it will be helpful in addressing the concerns that you may have when shopping for a bass.

How much should I expect to spend?

I usually suggest as much as you can afford. But if you are new to the string instrument market, this remark doesn't answer your question. I have searched the market and asked numerous colleagues for suggestions on where to find the best solid wood and carved basses for under $4000. Most have all said it can't be done.

I don't have that kind of money to spend. What is a parent, student or teacher to do?

The good news is, together with another colleague, I have found a small workshop in China that specializes in basses and cellos. Currently basses start at about $3800. That includes all the necessary professional setup work required to make the bass respond correctly and encourage your daughter, son or student to spend extra time practicing.

Yes, but what about that $2000 Bass I saw advertised in the mail order catalog?

The workmanship on this quality of bass often has not been given an appropriate amount of attention to important structural details. From the outside it can look fine, but inside there may be construction problems. These problems can come back to haunt you in a few years with an expensive repair bill. It is very important, even in this price range, to pay attention to the construction details to assure the longevity of your new bass. It's next to impossible to assure quality in anything less than $2500. After the body or woodwork has been constructed and varnish completed, the next item to consider is the setup of the bass. This should be of the highest professional standard.

Is there a difference between a mail order setup and a professional setup?

Most mail order "setups" I have seen were completed by someone who has never been professionally trained in bass setup work, let alone ever built a bass. The setup work involves the correct fitting and adjustment of the following items: bridge, sound post, fingerboard, string grooves at the nut, fitting of the machine gears, tailpiece, saddle, endpin and strings. All of these items, if correctly fitted and installed, are the vital link to making the sound box or body of the bass respond and vibrate efficiently. These important ingredients help the student enjoy how a bass should sound and feel. The price of a professional setup can add roughly $1200 or more to the price tag of the mail order bass. Now your $2000 bass has become a $3200 dollar item. Still only worth $2000, since the setup work does not always add value to the initial purchase.

Investment? Tell me more.

To retain value in your purchase, the best source to purchase from will always be the professional maker or dealer's shop. When it comes time to upgrade from your first bass purchase, most shops will honor a trade-in value equal to at least 80% of the original purchase price. This is assuming the condition of the bass has been maintained at a reasonable level of care. Some shops will go higher depending on the quality of the bass. Most mail-order catalogs are not in the business of resale. This means when it comes time to upgrade you have a couple of choices. You can try to sell the bass privately. This can be difficult. Or you can find a shop that might take the bass on consignment. Few professional shops will take in an instrument they did not sell originally. Working with a professional shop will start you off in the right direction for many years of enjoyment with your first student bass purchase.

Common Sense vs. Nonsense

"It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought is incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do."

"The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better."

John Ruskin (1819-1900)